Frequently Asked Questions
Why should I switch to water-cooling?Water-cooling is scientifically proven to be significantly more efficient at removing heat than air-cooling; it’s already used in a wide variety of cooling applications from your car’s engine to nuclear power plants and has been for many years. If you switch to water-cooling you can easily reduce the temperature in your growing environment, all while conserving energy and costs. Water-cooling allows users to add more lights per square foot, thereby increasing yields without damaging your plants with the heat from the additional bulbs. It also allows your growing environment to be completely self-contained if desired. The basic lighting system is the same as typical set-ups; the special feature is the incredible cooling capacity of the water flowing around (but never contacting) the replaceable lamp. Water cooling is so effective that the glass around a 1000 watt light can actually be cool to the touch. The Hydroflector Hybrid is ideally suited for mounting the lights in close proximity to plants. All conventional sources of artificial light produce heat as a byproduct. In applications like hydroponics and indoor gardening of any type, the heat produced by grow lamps can have endless negative effects on plant health, both directly (as in burning leaves) and indirectly (increased pest populations). It is imperative in such applications that the heat generated in the lamp is dissipated effectively and efficiently so that plant growth is not adversely affected. The best approach is to deal with the problem is at the source. Water cooled lighting controls the problem more effectively than air-cooled solutions by absorbing and conducting the heat away from its source.
How does the Hydroflector Hybrid work?
Your bulb is housed in a tube surrounded by a larger tube, both secured in place by two cleverly designed end cap fittings on either end. The fittings are equipped with custom-made heavy duty gaskets that seal on three sides to keep the unit water-tight. Cool water is circulated from a reservoir through the space between the two tubes, where it absorbs useless and damaging bulb heat before being passed back into the reservoir to cooled again (chiller optional).
Does the bulb come in contact with the water like previous water-cooled units?
Absolutely not! Your bulb is completely sealed off and will not make contact with the water. Used properly, the Hydroflector is completely safe and amazingly efficient. We know that water cooled lighting has been available in this industry for awhile, and like any new solution, has had its growing pains. The initial offerings had issues ranging from leaks to bulkiness, and from dependability to expense, but the Hydroflector Hybrid has overcome all of the obsticles. It exhibits excellent design and ease of use, and finally offers a complete package of parts - including a reflector.
What equipment do I need to be able to use the Hydroflector Hybrid?
Besides the unit itself, you’ll need a standard bulb/ballast set-up, a reservoir, a small pump, and a reasonable means to cool the water. You can purchase a hood with the unit, or you can retrofit most hoods already designed for 8” air cooling.
How do I cool the water?
Run to Waste
This system is the least expensive, easiest to set up and requires minimal hardware support. Best suited for growers with just a few lights, the set up is basically a hose running from a water tap to the first of the lights, arranged in series. The water finally exits through the last light and is vented to waste. This system will require a good quality water supply such as the municipal supply. However, it is wasteful so we don’t recommend it.
Recirculation System
This system reduces water consumption and uses a heat exchanger or chiller to cool the heated water, thus conserving both water and electricity. It’s made up of a reservoir, filter, hose and heat exchanger or chiller, and pump. Water is pumped from the reservoir through the filter, passes through the lights and is then cooled in the heat exchanger or chiller prior to flowing back to the reservoir. This system is recommended for anyone with a water cooled garden, and is a good way to minimize costs.
System for Venting Heat to Lakes, Streams etc.
This system is perfect for indoor gardeners who live near large bodies of water (lake, river, etc). The heated water in the reservoir can be piped through a heat exchanger submerged in the body of water, which cools it very thoroughly before it’s pumped back through the lights.
Lights as a Pool Heater
You can also submerge a heat exchanger in your above- or below-ground swimming pool. It’s an excellent way to get rid of heat and has the added bonus of heating your pool.
What size reservoir do I need?
If you’re using a chiller, your reservoir can be as small as 10 gallons; however, the bigger the reservoir the cooler the water will stay and the greater it’s heat absorption capabilities. If you’re not using a chiller or heat exchanger, we recommend a minimum of 100 gallons per 1000 watts, preferably 250 gallons per 1000 watts.
How do I keep my water clean and algae free?
Start by using clean water, and keep your reservoir covered to keep dust and dirt out. We recommend that you keep your reservoir and tubing “blacked out” as much as possible. If the water is only being exposed to light while passing through the Hydroflector Hybrid, the odds of algae growth go down significantly. You may also add a small amount of bleach to the water you’re using to cool; we recommend using a solution of less than 5% (20 parts water to 1 part bleach).1 ounce per gallon is ideal.
How much chiller power do I need? Do I really need a chiller?
The size of your chiller will depend upon the capacity of your reservoir. The larger the chiller, the smaller the reservoir necessary. We have found that a 55 Gallon drum/reservoir pairs well w/ two 1000 watt lamps on a ¼ H.P. chiller. Four lamps pair well with a ¼ HP chiller and 100 gallon reservoir, or ½ HP chiller with 55 gallon reservoir. For larger operations, lab tests suggest 12-16, 1000 watt lamps for every 1 hp of chiller cooling power, with reservoirs between 500 and 1000 gallons. The best combination of cooling power and reservoir size is going to depend on your specific square footage, outside temperature, and growing environment. If you have a large enough reservoir (we recommend burying for natural thermal cooling effects) a chiller may not be required (we recommend at least 250 gallons per 1000 watts). The amount of water required can vary depending on the reservoir’s location, but can be supplemented with the addition of a radiator. For trickier set-ups or situations not covered, you can email your questions to Liquid Lumens for advice.
What sizes do the water chillers come in?
There are many sizes available 1/15th hp, 1/10th hp, ¼ hp, 1/3 hp, ½ hp, 1hp, 1.5 hp, 2 hp, and 3 hp. There are sizes for every setup.
Do I leave the chiller powered on 24 hrs a day or just when the lights are running?
We suggest that that you leave the chiller on 24 hrs a day. During the time that the lights are on, the water temperature will steadily rise. Having the chiller running while the lights are off allows time for the water to be as cool as possible before the next light cycle. The chiller will not “run” the entire time it’s powered on. It will only run until the water reaches your preset temperature.
Where should I put the chiller and reservoir?
You can locate you reservoir anywhere you like. The chiller typically would be located outside your growing environment, since it produces a small amount of heat when it’s running. It can be located inside if you can vent the heat or if you have adequate air conditioning. A 1/2 hp chiller produces about as much heat as a large refrigerator.
To what temperature should I cool the water?
The cooler the water is, the more bulb heat it can absorb. However, the most cost-efficient method is to cool the water to slightly below the ambient temperature. Don’t set the water temperature below the dew point of the area the equipment is in or it will cause the unit and hoses to sweat.
My Hydroflector Hybrid and hoses are sweating, what do I do?
Your water temperature is set below the dew point. Turn off your light and slowly raise the temperature of chiller (one degree per hour) until the condensation goes away. Once condensation has gone away, restart your light. To avoid the issue in the beginning, start with a relatively high chiller temperature (60 degrees), and work your way down until you see the beginning of condensation. Set your chiller temperature to one degree above that point. Generally speaking, the higher the humidity, the higher the dewpoint. Drier growing environments allow a lower water temperature setting.
What is dew point?
Dew point is defined as the air temperature at which vapor begins to condense. Air is cooled to its water dew point and the water starts condensing and collects into small droplets. The same effect is demonstrated by a cool glass "sweating" on a humid day. The glass lowers the air temperature below the water dew point temperature and the water condenses on the sides of the cold glass.
Do I put the chiller in series with the light, and run everything off one pump?
In some circumstances you may. Your chiller has a minimum flow rate that is very important. Smaller chillers (1/4 hp and smaller) usually have a low flow rate and can be setup inline with you lamps on the exit side, or the discharge side of your unit. If your chiller flow rate is higher than what is recommended for your Hydroflector read below:
My chiller has a higher flow rate than what Liquid Lumens recommends for the Hydroflector, what do I do?
You have two options. You may set up your chiller on its own closed loop with the appropriate pump. Or, you can use one large pump for everything (see below).
How can I run several units from one large pump?
Set your plumbing up with a main “trunk” PVC line that runs from your pump, up, and across the ceiling of your grow room. Install a valve, then make a 180 degree turn to double back to the reservoir for water return. Important: The water supply lines (those connected to the lower nozzle on the unit) must be installed on the trunk line before the valve. The discharge lines(those connected to the upper nozzle on the unit) must be installed on the trunk line after the valve. This is important because the flow through your units can be adjusted with the valve. If the valve is closed, the water pressure from the pump is forced through the units. If wide open, it allows the water to bypass the units completely. You may adjust the valve to optimize your water flow. A wide range of GPM’s will work, but overall, the slower the better. You can use any size PVC for the “trunk”; at every supply and discharge point you simply put in a PVC tee with reducers down to ½” hose barbs. These parts are commonly available and can be purchased at any plumbing/hardware store. The chiller can be installed anywhere inline after the lamps have discharged.
How do I use a radiator or heat exchanger instead of a chiller?
LL will offer a 12” X 12” heat exchanger with a 10” duct flange attached. The heat exchanger can be cooled by air conditioning (one a/c line offers excellent results), or by fanning cool night air over the heat exchanger. The duct flange can be reduced for use with any size fan. The heat exchanger can also be submerged in a pond or swimming pool; this method offers greater cost-savings and works very well. Larger heat exchangers will be available through special order; e-mail LL for pricing information.
What size pump should I use?
It’s a common misconception that you should use a powerful pump and move the water quickly through the Hydroflector Hybrid. However, the water needs to spend some time inside the unit to maximize its heat absorption capacity, so we recommend a smaller pump for slow, steady flow. The slower the better, but a wide range of GPM’s will work suitably. For smaller setups submersible pumps work fine, for larger in-line set ups, we recommend a pool pump with lots of head pressure. For example, for a 12x1000w setup running through a chiller, use ½ HP to 1 HP (the higher the water lift required, the more HP and head pressure is needed). You can e-mail LL for recommendations if you’re not sure.
What size hose should I use?
½” heavy duty kink-resistant hose, which can be picked up at your local home improvement/hardware store.
Can I change my water nozzles out to a larger size?
Yes, you can change your nozzles to accommodate a larger hose, at your own risk. Any modification will void the warranty for you unit. The threads for the nozzles are ¼” NPT.
What kind of socket bracket does the unit have, and can I center the bulb inside the unit?
The Hydroflector Hybrid comes with a one of a kind aluminum socket bracket that is designed to fit the tight tolerances of the inside tube, while remaining completely adjustable, allowing you center a bulb of any length. The bracket also has an internal junction box allowing your connections to be completely protected from UV light.
Can I use a metal halide bulb with the Hydroflector Hybrid?
Yes, but it must be a conversion bulb, or one that measures less than 3 ½” across its widest point.
Can I air-cool with the Hydroflector Hybrid?
Absolutely. The Hydroflector Hybrid was designed to allow it to be air-cooled, water-cooled, or both for maximum flexibility.
Do I need to air-cool with the Hydroflector Hybrid?
Absolutely not. The air-cooling is merely an option LL offers for to allow for the most flexibility in use. This option is usually considered only in extreme conditions.
If I decide to water- and air-cool my lights, what size air ducting do I need?
4” flexible, preferably insulated, ducting.
How much does the unit weigh?
Approximately 40 lbs full of water.
Do I need to brace the ceiling where the unit hangs?
YES! But this is true of all your air cooling equipment too. If you’re concerned about your studs/joists holding the 40 lb weight, you may want to extend a brace over several joists. Never hang the unit directly from sheetrock! Liquid Lumens is not responsible for damages caused by failure to properly brace the unit.
Does the water I use in the unit have to be filtered?
The water doesn’t have to be filtered since you can easily take the unit apart, clean it, and reassemble. However, if you do use filtered water your cleaning frequency will decrease.
Can I use a filter in-line with the unit?
Absolutely. A 5 micron filter will keep any sediment from building up in unit. But remember, our unit can easily be disassembled for cleaning.
Can I use pond or pool water?
Yes, if it is passed through a sediment filter and clean. An alternative is to have a radiator/heat exchanger you can submerge in a pond or pool to chill the clean water running through the unit.
Will any of the parts rust or corrode?
No, all the parts that contact water are either plastic or rubber.
Does the water in the unit restrict the lumens output?
In most cases, the lumens output have been nearly identical to similar wattage in an air-cooled reflector. In some of our tests, we actually found the lumens output of the Hydroflector to be higher under certain circumstances. No matter what the circumstances, though, the minimal restriction of output is overwhelmingly compensated for by the ability to move your lights much closer to your plants.
Will the Hydroflector Hybrid parts break down in the UV light?
The fittings are constructed using super-strong injection-molded ABS plastic mixed with the highest amount of UV inhibitor possible. This will allow for years and years of dependable service without concern for UV damage.
Do I need to replace the gaskets? If so, how often?
The gaskets are an injection-molded Neoprene/EPDM rubber mix. This material will break down over time, so we recommend replacing the gaskets with every disassembly/reassembly.
Should I use a lubricant on the gaskets?
Yes, during assembly we recommend using a small amount of Dawn dishwashing liquid (or other liquid soap). This will ease assembly/reassembly and will not affect the water in the reservoir. We do not recommend any oil-based lubricant.
Can I get replacement parts? How?
Definitely. Every part, including the glass tubes, can be easily purchased a la carte on the Liquid Lumens website for a very reasonable price.
What happens if I make a mistake in the assembly or the unlikely event of a manufacturer’s defect, and the unit does leak?
The intelligent design of the Hydroflector means that a leak for any reason is highly unlikely. We took that one step further and designed the unit such that it is nearly impossible for the water to contact the bulb or the electrical components even in the event of a leak. 9 times out of 10, the head pressure of your pump will not exceed the siphoning vacuum of the water exiting the unit, so if there were a leak the unit is much more likely to draw air in than to leak water out. Additionally, if water were to leak into the inner tube, it would pour out the drain near the end cap before ever getting high enough to make contact with the bulb. However, nothing is impossible so taking the worst case scenario into consideration we strongly recommend the GFCI connection (see above and below). Liquid Lumens is not responsible for damages caused by incorrect reassembly or failure to use a GFCI connection.
What happens if my pump fails?
A no-flow/no-go switch can be purchased through the Liquid Lumens website. This will shut down your ballast, relay, and/or timer off in the event of pump failure. It works with a flow meter installed anywhere along the water line. The flow meter is wired to relay, which is plugged into the wall. Your timer or ballast is plugged into the relay. The standard model has 1” PVC female threads and can be reduced to ½” hose barb, but larger sizes are available from LL. The raw relays can also be purchased from LL for direct wiring applications.
What happens if my cooling unit fails?
When not being cooled, the water heats up slowly, and can reach temperatures up to 120 degrees F before dangerously heating your growing environment. This gives you some buffer for chiller failure. Paired with a high temperature cut-off for your lights (offered from several manufactures), your room will not go above your preset limit.
What is a GFCI and why do I need it?
GFCI stands for Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt. Simply stated, it will shut off the power to the plug if it senses a short (i.e., if water contacts any electrical component, the GFCI will immediately remove power).
Does the unit truly operate silently? How?
Absolutely, when water-cooling only. As a rule, chillers are very quiet (much quieter than your refrigerator) and the water pumps are usually submerged. As you’re aware, adding air-cooling adds noise from air-flow.
Does the unit offer anything other than temperature control and noise reduction?
Absolutely.
1) Greater productivity in almost any situation.
2) Easier control of disease and insect pests. Once you get your environment under control, everything else falls easily into place. Bugs, root disease, and pathogens thrive in hot environments and their populations can be significantly minimized by using our product properly.
3) Increased CO2 efficiency (CO2 not being “stolen” by the fans).
4) Reduced connection sizes (4”, 6” or 8” ducting replaced by ½” tubing).
5) Growing environment can be completely isolated and self-contained.
6) Year round operation without concern for weather conditions.
7) Ability to connect in series makes it easy to add lights.
8) Quick and easy tear-down and disassembly.
9) Excellent options for grow-tent and grow-box enclosures.
What kind of warranty does LL offer for the Hydroflector?
There is a one year warranty on all parts associated with the unit, and against leakage.
Is it necessary to drain and dis-assemble unit to replace bulb?
Unlike other units on the market, the Liquid Lumens Hydroflector does NOT need to be disassembled to change bulb. The 4” Air-cooling port will allow quick bulb access.
Does the water absorb any red light?
This is a complicated question and even more complicated answer. If you google red light absorption in water you will find the studies have been done on saline sea water ridden with dissolved solids and measured at multiple meters of depth. The high levels of solids play a role in light “scattering” and “attenuation”. We are looking for a simple answer as of now for our application. An important factor to keep in mind is that we are passing light through an inch of pure water (not salt water). After almost two years of experimenting with water-cooled lighting, the results are in and they are GREAT!
How “strong” does my pump need to be?
The Hydroflector does NOT require a high-pressure system. You will want to choose a pump that is just capable of pumping the water up the supply line, fill the vessel, and exit out the discharge side. As the water is discharged and falls back towards the reservoir, it creates a vacuum (negative pressure) and assists in the flow of water.
Does passing the light through the water cause a “lumen loss”?
Studies have shown that the lumen loss is insignificant (6-9%) compared to the extreme increase in usable light energy due to decreased distance between your light and plant canopy. By decreasing the plant canopy to light source distance, you can realize dramatically heavier yields and denser growth. Most HID’s have traditionally been kept at a minimum distance of 16-18” The Hydroflector can be run at less than half that distance increasing light energy levels up to 16 times.
Isn’t there going to be algae growth in the water that will block light?
No, we have found that the water passing through the HydroFlector is subjected to extreme heat and UV preventing the growth of algae. The extreme radiant heat is absorbed by the water helping to keep the unit running nice and clean. It is suggested to cover your reservoir and keep it from exposed ambient light. Using reverse osmosis water will help ensure that no mineral build-up will occur on the glass.
My room has a dedicated A/C, why would I water cool?
Put that A/C to sleep! Not only will you cut your cooling bill by more than 50% but you will increase your yield thanks to closer lamp to plant canopy tolerance. The fact is that no other mechanism allows you to get your plants this close to the light source without heat damage. This decrease in distance can increase your usable light energy by 16 fold, thereby giving you amazing yields never seen before!
What are other benefits of water cooling?
Completely removes IR signature from light source. When you “shoot” the unit directly towards the bulb w/ an IR heat reader, you will get a temperature reading of the water which circulates around the bulb. Also, you can put those noisy fans away for good and NO MORE DUCTING! Complete silence while maintaining a perfect environment? YES!
I have noticed some water collecting inside the inner tube, but am confident the unit is not leaking. What is happening?
The likely cause of this is condensation. The same effect occurs when you put a cold drink on the table. To keep this condensation from collecting, find the dew-point in your area and set the chiller above this dew-point to prevent condensation. Use this link for dew-point calculations: http://www.decatur.de/javascript/dew/index.html
Can I use regular tap water to cool the Hydroflector?
We have found variable results from different water sources. Not all “tap” water is the same and “well” water seems to be the worse in most cases. We recommend the use of distilled water (reverse osmosis) which is free of suspended carbonates which can collect on the inner glass surface and hamper performance in time. Generally speaking, water with a TDS reading of under 250 is ok. The lower the better.
I used hard water in my unit and now it has build up… What can I do to clean the unit of these carbonate deposits?
You can use CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) remover which is found at most grocery stores or home improvement stores. Deposits are easily removed with a sponge and this cleaner.
How often should I change the gaskets?
We recommend changing the gasket set every time you pull your unit apart for maintenance (use a quality water source and avoid the maintenance routine).
The Hydroflector uses plastic parts, won’t these melt?
Absolutely not. After extensive materials testing and careful selection we have found an extreme thermoplastic which tolerates the heat from a 1000 watt unit which has gone through pump failure. This material is made to withstand extreme heat and UV without breakdown. Please see our engineering report for a heat analysis of units run in “pump failure mode” and “dry”. We have seen on our competition’s website that plastic is no good…. Why then are they using plastic nozzles (which are not thermo-plastic)?.
I have seen other water cooled lights on the market, what makes the Hydroflector superior?
The Hydroflector engineers and designers have spent two years in development and testing prior to market release. We did our homework and it shows. The unique collar mount and endcap design allows the user to secure the unit without long threaded bolts that block or hinder the light path. The outer glass is 5mm thick versus 3mm or less on other units. While this adds a little weight, it adds a lot of security against physical or heat stress breakage. In addition, the HydroFlector boasts a higher “flow” rating than any other water-cooled unit on the market.
I really don’t want to use a chiller… is that my only option to chill the water?
A chiller is one of MANY options. We have seen some incredible set-ups to date. Some of the more impressive involve trenching the earth and burying heat exchanging stainless or copper pipe. In addition to Geo-thermal exchange, you can use any large body of water (Jacuzzi, pool, pond, etc)
I noticed there is a competing unit that utilizes aluminum instead of plastic, that is superior to the plastic parts, right?
In the case of pump failure the weakest link in any water-cooled light is the gaskets. They are subject to failure long before the parts, and are therefore the weakest link. Unfortunately, no water-cooled unit is designed to run “dry”, and we suggest a device that shuts down your ballast in the event you loose water supply. A “No-Flow, No-Go switch is currently in development and will be available in the coming weeks”.
What is included in the Hydroflector system?
The Hydroflector refers to the liquid cooled apparatus only. The reflector is optional and can be purchased separately. The chiller and plumbing are also items which are purchased separately and will soon be available to purchase on this and other web-sites.
What type of tubing is used to transport the water?
The tubing which is recommended is the same ½” inner diameter tubing that is used to run the hot water supply to your dishwasher. It is reinforced and designed for warm to hot water conditions and won’t kink.
Where are the connecting rods?
The Hydroflector vessel uses compression methods applied only at each endcap. This allows for light to escape the vessel without being obstructed by janky rods.
How much water does each unit hold?
211 Ounces or 1.65 Gallons.