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Underwater Light Install Instructions

(With Power Supply Box)

*Use the INTEGRATED Power Supply Box for installs with a factory equipped or aftermarket installed underwater light switch (touchscreen or accessory switch options available from factory for some boats).

***Switch not provided by Liquid Lumens***

Materials Needed:

  • Drill with #2 Philips Head
  • Philips Screw Driver
  • Marine Grade Sealant and manufacturer recommended cleaning agent (we recommend using 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 or similar)
  • Manufacturer recommended cleaning agent to clean up any excess adhesive from gel coat. (Note: Acetone will damage the surface of Powder-Coated finishes and should not be used on that version of the underwater light, but is an effective cleaning agent for anodized finishes. Just be sure to test it on your gel-coat in a discrete location first to make sure it does not damage or discolor your boat’s finish.)
  • Wire Strippers
  • 1/4” Drill Bit for wire hole
  • 11/64” Drill Bit for mounting screw holes
  • Socket and Driver to remove battery bolts
  • Zip Ties (provided)
  • Paper Towels or rag (for cleanup)
  • Install Diagram

Wiring-Diagram-For-Liquid-Lumens-Underwater-Lights-With-Integrated-Install-Kit

WARNING

  • NEVER INSTALL THE POWER SUPPLY BOX IN AN ENGINE COMPARTMENT, OR WHERE IT MAY GET WET. THE POWER SUPPLY BOX SHOULD BE INSTALLED IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA WHERE THE FAN OPENING AND SIDE COOLING HOLES WILL NOT BE BLOCKED FROM AIR FLOW. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HOW TO PROPERLY INSTALL ACCESSORIES IN YOUR BOAT, PLEASE REFERENCE THE US COAST GUARD BOAT BUILDER’S HANDBOOK: http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilders-handbook.php

  • ALWAYS TURN LIGHTS OFF BEFORE TRAILERING YOUR BOAT OR REMOVING THE BOAT FROM THE WATER. NEVER LEAVE LIGHTS POWERED ON WHILE TOWING YOUR BOAT, AS THIS CAN POSE A SERIOUS HAZARD TO OTHER MOTORISTS BEHIND YOU ON THE ROAD.

  • ALWAYS SHUT OFF MASTER SWTICH WHEN NOT IN USE.

  • NEVER LENGHTEN BATTERY POWER CABLE.

  • SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED BY QUALIFIED INDIVIDUALS.

  • INSTALL 40AMP FUSE AS FINAL STEP.

Step 1 – Mount Light(s) on boat transom:

The Underwater lights need to be mounted below the water line when the boat is motionless. For best results, mount the lights as low on the transom as possible (the deeper the lights sit in the water, the better they will perform while your boat is underway). Verify that when you drill into the transom, that your drill has a clear unobstructed path on the inside of the boat and that you won’t accidentally drill into anything important on the boat’s interior. Pro Tip: When you drill into gel-coat, first run the drill in reverse until you break thought the colored surface of the gel coat, then run the drill forward to break through to the other side. This will help reduce possible gel coat chipping around the drill hole. You can also place masking tape over the area where you plan to drill until the hole is made. This will provide additional protection against chipping or cracking the gel coat surrounding the hole.

  1. Use the supplied paper template. Mark a spot to drill a 1/4” hole for the light wires. Drill the 1/4” hole thought the transom.
  2. Remove the paper template.
  3. Verify from the inside of the boat that the hole made it into the intended location and that you will have a clear path to run the light wires through the interior of the boat to the power supply box before proceeding to the next step.
  4. Pass the light wires though the hole and hold the light flush to the transom surface. With the entire wire inside the boat and the light body held in the desired mounting location against the boat, use the light body as a drill template for drilling the three mounting screws. While holding the light in its desired mounting position firmly against the transom using one hand, use the other hand to drill just one of the three mounting screw holes using the 11/64” drill bit. Start one of the supplied 316 stainless steel #10 screws through the light into the hole you just drilled, but do not tighten it. We recommend installing the screw about half way for this step. This is to prevent the light from rotating while drilling the other mounting screw holes. Repeat this step for the second and third screw holes. Do not tighten any of the screws yet. TIP: When advancing the stainless steel screw, use a powered drill on a slow setting with firm back pressure against the drill to prevent stripping the head of the screw. Gel coat is strong and requires firm pressure to control the screws as you install them.
  5. Remove the three stainless steel screws that were used in Step 3 and remove the light from the transom in order to apply marine sealant to the back of the light (leave the wire inside the boat transom during this this step)
  6. Cover the back of the light with a light coat of 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 or similar marine grade sealant. Make sure that the wire coming from the back of the light fixture has a continuous bead of sealant all the way around its perimeter in order to create a water tight seal against the hull of the boat when in place. Fill the three screw holes that pass through into the boat transom with sealant as well to create a water tight seal around the screws when installed.
  7. Position the light against the back of the boat, aligned with the three screw holes drilled in Step 4. Install each of the three 316 stainless steel #10 screws into their respective holes, taking care not to tighten any of them until all three screws are in place. The light should mount very snug and a slight amount of sealant should ooze out past the edges of the light. Make sure that sealant has oozed out all the way around the light for a good water-tight installation, while at the same time taking care not to overtighten the screws and strip the gel coat. Clean off excess silicone per the manufacturer directions. If using 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200, acetone or nail polish remover will work for cleanup on anodized light housings, but never use these products on white powder-coated finishes as it can damage the lights. TIP: Test a small amount of acetone, or other cleanup chemical, on your boat’s hull surface in an area that is not visible prior to use to be sure that no damage or discoloration will occur during cleanup.

 

Step 2 – Mount the Power Supply Box

Find a safe, dry, well ventilated location to mount the Power Supply Box. Important: Electronics and water don’t mix well.  Although the Power Supply Box is Ignition Protected, it is never recommended to get it wet, so choose a location that will have adequate airspace for ventilation, remain dry at all times and also stay out of direct sunlight. On smaller boats, avoid mounting the Power Supply Box in the engine compartment or any location where excessive heat is possible, otherwise the drivers may overheat and shutoff. The Power Supply box must be mounted no further than 10 feet away from the battery supplying power and within 30 feet from where the lights are mounted, using the wires provided by Liquid Lumens. For more information on safely installing an accessory in your boat please reference the US Coast Guard Boat Builder’s Handbook, located at:

http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/boatbuilders-handbook.php

Warning: Never lengthen the 8 gauge power supply wire that connects the battery to the Power Supply Box. Use only Liquid Lumens supplied wires and parts for installation to ensure proper wire gauge and power supply to your lights. Failure to use Liquid Lumens provided components may result in unsafe operating conditions.

  1. Identify a safe, dry, well-ventilated location to mount the Power Supply Box. Mark where you will drill holes to mount the box. Verify that you are not drilling into anything on the other side of your selected mounting location (including the exterior of the boat). Verify that both the 8 gauge wire and the light wires will reach the location of the box. Pre-drill mounting holes if necessary.
  2. Mount the box using the supplied mounting screws.

 

Step 3 – Supply 12V power to the Liquid Lumens Power Supply Box using the provided 8 gauge fused wire:

Up to this point you should not have made any wire connections to the boat battery or battery disconnect switch. Some boats will have more than one battery. The Power Supply Box should be connected to either the protected side of the battery disconnect switch (the side of the switch that does not receive power when the disconnect switch is in the “OFF” position), or directly to the boat battery (always use the accessory battery/disconnect switch, not the engine crank battery, if more than one battery is available). Your Power Supply Box came with heavy 8 gauge wire to connect the Power Supply Box to the battery. One end has been pre-terminated for connection to the battery posts for ease of installation. Important: The Red wire (with the in-line fuse holder) should be connected to the positive (+) side of the battery disconnect or battery post in order for the fuse to properly protect the Power Supply Box. Before you make any connection to the battery, verify that the 40amp blade fuse is not installed in the blade fuse holder. This connection will be made later.

  1. Verify that the Power Supply Box master switch is in the “Off” position
  2. Route the 8 Gauge wire from the battery to the Power Supply Box out of the way of anything that produces excessive heat and taking care to avoid areas of the boat that may get wet. Use zip ties to secure the wire along its routing. Extra wire can be cut off to shorten the wire length if all 10 feet are not needed to reach the Power Supply Box from the battery. Wait to connect the battery side of the wires until after the Power Supply Box is connected to avoid damaging the Power Supply Box. Warning: Never lengthen the 8 gauge power supply wire that connects the battery to the Power Supply Box. Use only Liquid Lumens supplied wires and parts for installation to ensure proper wire gauge and power supply to your lights. Please contact Customer Care if you need additional help.
  3. After cutting the wire to an appropriate length for your installation, strip approximately 1/2” (inch) of the wire jacket from both the black and red un-terminated wire ends. Slip the red and black heat shrink tubes over the corresponding colored wires loosely and leave in place. Place the provided wire end terminals onto the wire ends (only after the heat shrink tube is loosely in place around the wires) and crimp them securely down onto the wires. Ensure that the terminals are securely in place by firmly holding the terminal ring in one hand and pulling the wire away from it. The wires should not slip or move within the terminal ring. If they do, the terminals need to be re-crimped to apply more pressure until the wire is snugly in place. Slide the heat-shrink tubes back up the wire to cover the crimped wire ends. Apply hot air to the shrink tube to get it to shrink down around the freshly terminated wire ends. A heat-shrink heat gun or appropriate alternate heat-source can be used to accomplish this step. Just be sure that the tube has shrunk all the way down around the wire and terminal ring ends and that it has not been burned or damaged from too much heat. Attach the Red Wire (+) into wire terminal marked “From Battery (+)” by removing the screw and clamp from the appropriate terminal block on the Power Supply Box and re-secure it by placing the terminal ring under the clamping plate with the screw passing through the terminal ring, and re-securing it into place on the Power Supply Box. Secure the screw down firmly into place using a Philips Screw driver. Repeat this step with the Black wire into the terminal block labeled “From Battery (-).”
  4. Connect the Black battery terminal ring to the negative post of the battery and fasten securely. Note: Batteries are always live and producing power. Always connect the Black (-) wire first for proper grounding before connecting the Red (+) wire to avoid damaging electrical components.
  5. Connect the Red battery terminal ring to the positive post of the battery and fasten securely.

 

Step 4 – Connect the light wires to the Power Supply Box

Route the light wires through the interior of the boat from the mounting location to the Power Supply Box. Choose a route where the wires will be safe from water, oil and excessive heat, moving boat parts such as engine components, belts, pulleys, or areas where gear is being stored in the boat could catch or snag the wires. Be careful to route and secure the wires away from any of these hazards. Use zip ties to secure the wires into place. If extra wire isn’t needed when you arrive at the box, you can cut off the excess if desired.

  1. Strip approximately 1/2” inch of the wire jacket from ends of both the black and red wire. Place the provided blade style wire end terminals onto the wire ends and crimp securely onto the wire. Ensure that the blade terminals are securely in place by firmly holding the terminal in one hand and pulling the wire away from it firmly with the other hand. The wires should not slip or move within the crimped terminal. If they do, the terminals need to be re-crimped to apply more pressure until the wire is snugly in place. Attach the Red Wire (+) into wire terminal marked “Underwater Lights Red (+)” by removing the screw and clamp from the appropriate terminal blockon the Power Supply Box and re-secure it by placing the terminal blade under the clamping plate with the screw passing through the center of the terminal, and re-securing it into place on the Power Supply Box. Secure the screw down firmly into place using a Philips Screw driver. Repeat this step with the Black wire into the terminal block labeled “Underwater Lights Black (-).” IMPORTANT: NEVER install Underwater Light wires to the middle terminal block labeled “Top-Side Light.” This location is reserved for an above-water light only. Voltage requirements of Underwater Lights and Top-Side Lights are unique and damage to your lights may occur if not connected to the properly labeled terminals. Please refer to www.liquidlumens.com for more details about the Top-Side Light.
  2. If you are installing two lights, repeat Step 1 above for the second light but into the other wire terminal block labeled “Underwater Lights.” Each Power Supply Box can support proper operation of two (2) Underwater LED Lights. WARNING: NEVER connect more than one light to each terminal block. This may damage the Power Supply Box and/or Lights and will void your warranty.

Step 5 – Connect the Factory Dashboard switch wires to the Power Supply Box

NOTE: The Dashboard Switch terminals on the Power Supply Box will only accept a 12v signal. If you are unsure of the voltage output of your Dashboard Switch, consult your Boat Manufacturer or an Authorized Liquid Lumens Dealer prior to installation.

  1. If your boat is pre-wired for underwater lights, first locate one of the factory underwater light wire(s) and test it with a multi-meter to verify it is a 12V power source that can be activated from your boat’s factory underwater light switch or touchscreen display. Alternatively, if you are installing a new dash switch, please consult your boat manufacturer or authorized dealer for instructions on how to properly install a 12V dash switch for accessories in your boat. Note: most factory light pre-wiring is terminated at the back of the boat near the transom. Connect the Liquid Lumens provided 18 gauge wire to the factory wiring (or your newly installed switch). Only one set (one red and one black) of wires is needed for this step. Follow the instructions in step 4.1 for adding appropriate blade connectors to the wire ends as needed. Attach the two wires into the wire terminal marked “Dashboard Switch” on the Power Supply Box. Secure wires into the wire terminal using a Philips Screw driver as in Step 4.1. Note: The Liquid Lumens power supply and light output is self-contained directly from your boat’s batteries to the Power Supply Box and then directly from the Power Supply Box to the Liquid Lumens Underwater Lights. This step is simply in order to provide a 12V “signal” to the Power Supply Box of when to turn the lights on and off from your dash. That is why only one set of wires are necessary.

 

Step 6 – Test the lights

Important: Do not look directly at the light source. The lights you are installing have a very high light output that could hurt your vision if you look directly at the light source. Important: Do not run the lights for an extended period of time out of the water. One of the by-products of high light output is heat generation. When the boat is in the water, heat will be dissipated adequately with ambient water and air movement around the transom of your boat, allowing for continuous light operation. When out of the water, heat can build up very quickly. The lights have an internal thermal switch built in for safety and if an excessive temperate is reached the lights will shut down until the lights have cooled sufficiently. Important: When not in use, ALWAYS leave the Master Switch for the Power Supply Box in the “Off” position. This is especially important when trailering or towing your boat as the thermal switch could shut the light off in the “On” position allowing it to cool and turn back on once underway. This could potentially pose a serious safety risk to other motorists on the road behind your trailered boat!

  1. Install the 40amp blade fuse into the holder and secure the cap. Important: If the fuse burns, remove it and call customer care immediately.
  2. If necessary, turn on the accessory power for the dashboard. Consult your owner’s manual for more information.
  3. Turn the Power Supply Box Master Power Switch to “ON”.
  4. Locate the factory installed Dashboard Switch for the Factory Underwater Lights. Active the Switch. The newly installed Liquid Lumens lights should turn on. Verify that both lights are on and functioning properly. Active the same switch to turn off.
  5. Get out on the water and enjoy your new lights!

NOTE: When not in use, ALWAYS leave the Master Power Switch of the Power Supply Box in the Off position.

For questions or concerns with your install, contact Liquid Lumens customer support at:

(844) LLUMENS

or

(844) 558-6367

Underwater Light Installation Instructions for Remote Controlled Power Supply Box Install Kit

Materials Needed:

  • Drill with #2 Philips Head
  • Philips Screw Driver
  • Marine Grade Sealant and manufacturer recommended cleaning agent (we recommend using 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 or similar)
  • Wire Strippers
  • 1/4” (6.35mm) Drill Bit for wire hole
  • 5/32” (3.97mm) Drill Bit for mounting screws
  • Socket and Driver to remove battery bolts
  • Zip Ties
  • Paper Towels or rag (for cleanup)
  • Acetone or nail polish remover to clean up any excess adhesive from gel coat

Install Diagram

Wiring-Diagram-For-Liquid-Lumens-Underwater-Light-Installation-Instructions

IMPORTANT

•        NEVER INSTALL THE POWER SUPPLY BOX IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT

•        NEVER RUN LIGHTS OUT OF WATER FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS

•        ALWAYS SHUT OFF MASTER SWTICH WHEN NOT IN USE

•        NEVER LENGHTEN BATTERY POWER CABLE.

•        SHOULD ONLY BE INSTALLED BY QUALIFIED INDIVIDUALS

•        INSTALL 40AMP FUSE AS FINAL STEP

Step 1 – Mount Light on boat transom

The Underwater lights need to be mounted below the water line when the boat is motionless.  For best results, mount the lights as low on the transom as possible (the deeper the lights sit in the water, the better they will perform while your boat is underway).  Verify that when you drill into the transom, that your drill has a clear unobstructed path on the inside of the boat and that you won’t accidentally drill into anything important on the boats interior. Tip: When you drill into gel-coat, first run the drill in reverse until you break thought the colored surface of the gel coat, then run the drill forward to break through to the other side. This will help reduce possible gel coat chipping around the drill hole.

  1. Use the supplied paper template.  Mark a spot to drill a 1/4” hole for the light wires.  Drill the 1/4” hole thought the transom.
  2. Remove the paper template.
  1. Pass the light wires though the hole and hold the light flush to the transom surface.  (Use the light body as a drill template for drilling the three mounting screws).  Hold the light in its desired mounting position firmly against the transom using one hand and drill using the 5/32” drill bit to drill one of the mounting screw holes with your other hand.  Start one of the supplied 316 stainless steel #10 screws though the light into the hole you just drilled, but do not tighten all the way. We recommend installing the screw about half way for this step.  This is just to prevent the light from rotating while drilling the other mounting screw holes.  Repeat this step for the second and third screw holes.  TIP: When advancing the stainless steel screw, use a powered drill on a slow setting with firm back pressure against the drill to prevent stripping the head of the screw.
  1. Remove the three stainless steel screws that were used in Step 3 and remove the light from the transom in order to apply marine sealant to the back of the light (leave the wire inside the boat transom during this this step)
  2. Cover the back of the light with a light coat of 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 or similar marine grade sealant.  Make sure that the wire coming from the back of the light fixture has a continuous bead of sealant all the way around its perimeter in order to create a water tight seal against the hull of the boat when in place.  Fill the three screw holes that pass through into the boat transom with sealant as well to create a water tight seal around the screws when installed.
  3. Position the light against the back of the boat, aligned with the three screw holes drilled in Step 3. Install each of the three 316 stainless steel #10 screws into their respective holes, taking care not to tighten any of them until all three screws are in place. The light should mount very snug and a slight amount of sealant should ooze out past the edges of the light.  Make sure that silicone has oozed out all the way around the light for a good water-tight installation, while at the same time taking care not to overtighten the screws and strip the gel coat.  Clean off excess silicone per the manufacturer directions. If using 3M™ Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200, acetone or nail polish remover will work for cleanup. TIP: Test a small amount of acetone, or other cleanup chemical, on your boat’s hull surface in an area that is not visible prior to use to be sure that no damage or discoloration will occur during cleanup.

 

Step 2 – Mount the Power Supply Box

Find a safe location to mount the Power Supply Box. Important: the Power Supply Box isn’t designed to get wet, so choose a location that will have adequate airspace for ventilation, remain dry at all times and also stay out of direct sunlight.  On smaller boats, avoid mounting the Power Supply Box in the engine compartment or any location where excessive heat is possible.  The Power Supply box must be mounted no further than 10 feet away from the battery supplying power and within 15 feet from where the lights are mounted. This 15 feet can be increased up to 30 feet with a Liquid Lumens approved wire extension kit (not included).  Warning: Never lengthen the 8 gauge power supply wire that connects the battery to the Power Supply Box. Use only Liquid Lumens supplied wires and parts for installation to ensure proper wire gauge and power supply to your lights.

  1. Identify a location to mount the Power Supply Box.  Mark where you will drill holes to mount the box.  Verify that you are not drilling into anything on the other side of your selected mounting location.  Verify that both the 8 gauge wire and the light wires will reach the location of the box.  Drill mounting holes if necessary.
  2. Mount the box using the supplied mounting screws

 

Step 3 – Connect the wires from the battery to the Power Supply Box

Up to this point you shouldn’t have made any wire connections to the boat battery.  Some boats will have more than one battery.   The Power Supply Box should be connected to the auxiliary battery (not the engine start battery) if possible.  Your Power Supply Box came with heavy 8 gauge wire to connect the Power Supply Box to the battery.  One end has a fuse terminal and battery terminal rings for ease of installation.  Important:  Before you make any connection to the battery, verify that the 40amp blade fuse is not installed in the blade fuse holder.   This connection will be made later.

  1. Verify that the Power supply Box master switch is in the “Off” position
  1. Route the 8 Gauge wire from the battery to the Power Supply Box out of the way of anything that produces excessive heat and taking care to keep it away from areas of the boat that may get wet.  Use zip ties if necessary to secure the wire.  Extra wire can be cut off to shorten the wire length if all 10 feet are not needed to reach the Power Supply Box from the battery.  Warning: Never lengthen the 8 gauge power supply wire that connects the battery to the Power Supply Box. Use only Liquid Lumens supplied wires and parts for installation to ensure proper wire gauge and power supply to your lights.  Please contact Customer Care if you need additional help.
  2. Strip approximately 1/2” (inch) of the wire jacket from both the black and red wire ends.  Insert the Red Wire (+) into wire terminal marked “From Battery (+)”.  Snug wire up into the wire terminal using a Philips Screw driver.  Repeat this step with the Black wire into the terminal block labeled “From Battery (-).”
  3. Connect the Black battery terminal ring to the negative post of the battery and fasten securely.  Note: Batteries are always live and producing power. Always connect the Black (-) wire first for proper grounding before connecting the Red (+) wire to avoid damaging electrical components.
  4. Connect the Red battery terminal ring to the positive post of the battery and fasten securely.

 

Step 4 – Connect the light wires to the Power Supply Box

Route the light wires through the interior of the boat from the mounting location to the Power Supply Box.  Choose a route where the wires will be safe from water or excessive heat, moving boat parts such as engine components, or areas where gear being stored in the boat could catch or snag the wires.  Use zip ties to secure the wires in order to ensure they will remain safely mounted during use of the boat.  If extra wire isn’t needed when you arrive at the box, you can cut off excess if desired.

  1. Strip approximately 1/2” inch of the wire jacket from ends of both the black and red wire.  Insert the Red Wire (+) wire into wire terminal marked “Underwater Lights Red (+)”.  Secure wire into place on the wire terminal using a Philips Screw driver.  Repeat this step with the Black wire in the same manner to the terminal labeled “Underwater Lights Black (-).”  IMPORTANT:  NEVER install Underwater Light wires to the middle terminal block labeled “Top-Side Light.”  This location is reserved for an above-water light only.  Voltage requirements of Underwater Lights and Top-Side Lights are unique and damage to your lights may occur if not connected to the properly labeled terminals. Please refer to www.liquidlumens.com for more details about the Top-Side Light.
  2. If you are installing two lights, repeat Step 1 above for the second light but into the other wire terminal block labeled “Underwater Lights.” Each Power Supply Box can support proper operation of two (2) Underwater LED Lights. WARNING: NEVER connect more than one light to each terminal block. This may damage the Power Supply Box or Lights and will void your warranty.

 

 

Step 5 – Test the lights

Important:  Do not look directly at the light source.  The lights you are installing have a very high light output that could hurt your vision if you look directly at the light source.  Important: Do not run the lights for more than 30 seconds out of the water.  One of the by-products of high light output is heat generation.  When the boat is in the water, heat will be dissipated adequately allowing for continuous light usage, but when out of the water heat can build up very quickly.  The lights have an internal thermal switch built in for safety and if an excessive temperate is reached the lights will shut down until the lights have cooled sufficiently.   Important:  When not in use, ALWAYS leave the Master Switch for the Power Supply Box in the “Off” position. This is especially important when trailering or towing your boat as the thermal switch could shut the light off in the “On” position allowing it to cool and turn back on once underway. This could potentially pose a serious safety risk to other motorists on the road behind your trailered boat!

  1. Install the 40amp blade fuse into the holder and secure the cap.  Important:  If the fuse burns, remove it and call customer care immediately.
  1. Turn the master switch to “ON”
  2. Locate the wireless remote.  If you have a one-button remote, depress the button to turn the lights on.  Depress the same button to turn the lights off.  If you have a two button remote, depress the “B” button to turn the lights on.  Depress the same button to turn the lights off.
  3. Test the Remove Bypass switch.  Turn lights off (if On) with the remote control.  With the Master Switch still on, depress the Remote Bypass Switch.   Lights should come on without the use of the remote control.  Turn off the Remote Bypass Switch.
  4. Get out on the water and enjoy your new lights!